Driving from Ross-on-Wye to Walford on a dark winter’s evening, the lights glowing from the windows of the Mill Race seemed particularly welcoming, highlighting the attractive features of this traditional village pub which has a great reputation for fantastic food.

These first impressions were confirmed as my sister and I, out for a meal and the chance to catch up on family news, walked into the bar.

We were warmly welcomed in every way. First by the friendly manager, Mark Rigby, and by the open fire.  The Mill Race is really attractive with stone flagged floors, dark wooden furniture in keeping with a village pub and customers can see into the kitchen where chef, Mike Rutherford was hard at work. I was very impressed by the attention to detail in the food, which was why we were there. I thought the board giving details about the suppliers really interesting and the insistence on using good quality ingredients was obvious in every mouthful.

The menu reflected not only the premise that the pub is supplied by food grown and produced on its own farm but also by the season. Choices ranged from risotto and butternut squash which I was very tempted by, to a baked hake with pearl barley, to the pub’s signature steaks.

As well as the regular menu there is a chalkboard full of daily specials, which gave even more reason to pause for thought. It was difficult to decide as everything sounded a little different but very tempting.

Starters included smoked mackerel and Cullen Skink, but I had the home made scotch egg with a spicy sauce, the crisp exterior gave way to a beautifully cooked soft egg in the centre surrounded by a tasty pork sausage meat. Although the sauce was certainly spicy it complimented the meaty scotch egg perfectly.

My sister chose the crayfish cocktail which she said was absolutely beautiful, nestled on an unusual cucumber jelly it was brim full of crayfish and topped by croutons.  Both starters were very generous portions.

For our main courses I stayed with the pork theme and chose pork saltimbuco, an escalope of pork rolled around a flavoursome stuffing and wrapped in parma ham. The meat was tasty and moist, it was served with a fondant potato and crunchy green beans and delicious Masala wine jus. I enjoyed every mouthful.

However, my sister insisted she had chosen the best meal available, she went for the rib-eye steak which Mike recommended, and said it was probably one of the best steaks she has ever eaten, and for someone who always plumps for steak if it’s on the menu that is high praise indeed. She said it was succulent and full of flavour, perfectly cooked and presented with the sauce she selected served separately so she was able to savour the full flavour of this cut of Herefordshire beef.

She said it was obvious that the meat had come from a supplier who really knows how to produce the best and she too was intrigued when I told her about the farm which supplies the Mill Races and the manager’s insistence on using the best local produce.

I was not going to order a dessert until I saw my favourite sticky toffee pudding with caramel sauce and honeycomb ice cream. Whereas my sister is known for her love of steak I am famous for the number of sticky toffee puddings I have tried in the search for perfection. I found it here, the sponge was light but full of flavour, the sauce generous and just the right side of sweetness and the ice cream set it off wonderfully. My sister declined a pudding but we ordered coffee and the tray of Mill Race treats, which were delicious and home-made, and the coffee supplied by James which is ground in Ross was the perfect end to a very special meal.

The service by Claire Haunton and Kayne Walker was friendly and attentive without being intrusive, my sister and I were able to catch up on our family news without being concerned that we could be overheard, as is often the feeling in pubs or chain restaurants. If you are looking for a warm, friendly restaurant to enjoy superb food, featuring fabulous local ingredients, then the Mill Race is the place for you.

Jo Scrivin